After playing around with my odd, tight-yet-baggy, marker-ridden muslin pants some more, I decided to return to my green pants (Butterick 6833). They fit well enough to wear out in the world, after all. I decided to use those as an already-started “muslin” to experiment with. I was intrigued by Connie Crawford’s “flat tush adjustment”, which is about 1000x simpler than comparable “flat butt adjustments” found here and there on the internet. It seemed like a good place to start, and if it didn’t work, I could easily rip out the seam and return the pants to their previous shape.
I liked it.
And so I proceeded to sew an entirely new pair of pants, using the same pattern, that one adjustment, and adding a partial lining (to reduce visible panty line, and to protect my delicate flesh from the hard metal teeth of the side zipper.)
They look like this:
Although I may just be the last woman in the developed world to discover my pants don’t fit, and trying to make pants that do might be a bit of a sewing-blog cliche, I’m posting all different views of my new trousers, anyway, toward getting better at making them fit.
I cheated a little bit. Even though I cut the same size as I had for the green pair, I was a little bit stingy with the seam allowances, so they’re a fraction of a size larger, which allows them to skim even more loosely and the extra ease softens any fit problems that might otherwise show up.
A certain gentleman very kindly insists that I am mistaken in my diagnosis, however: Connie Crawford’s “flat tush adjustment” seems to have been effective at smoothing out the slack fabric just under my butt.
Depending on how I move, though, I get diagonal wrinkles across the backs of my legs, like this:
It’s funny, because an email from the McCall pattern company this week tells me I can learn a special technique to reverse engineer my favorite pants, by taking a workshop. The copy says “As hard as it is to find a pair of trousers that fits right, we all have one. It’s our favorite. It flatters us, and it feels good.”
No. No, everyone does not. I went through my entire pants collection this weekend, trying them on, looking at them with a critical seamstress eye, and to each one, there are wrinkles in various places, which, had I made them myself, would indicate that my pattern requires some “fish eye dart” or “knock-knee adjustment” or some other such tweaking. I own not a single pair of slacks that 1) fit comfortably and 2) flatter my shape and 3) hang in a way that would be approved by the pants-sewing blogosphere. They all wrinkle and pull, with one exception: my yoga pants. But there are only so many places I can wear those, so…I continue.
And although these are not perfect, either, I think they’re at least as good as any of the ready-to-wear options inhabiting my wardrobe.
Next time: I’ll adapt the facing to create a curved waistband, instead, bringing the zipper to the front and making a mock-fly (also adapted from the Butterick B5222 Connie Crawford pattern), and then maybe I’ll get really crazy and add some pockets, too.