After playing around with my odd, tight-yet-baggy, marker-ridden muslin pants some more, I decided to return to my green pants (Butterick 6833). They fit well enough to wear out in the world, after all. I decided to use those as an already-started “muslin” to experiment with. I was intrigued by Connie Crawford’s “flat tush adjustment”, which is about 1000x simpler than comparable “flat butt adjustments” found here and there on the internet. It seemed like a good place to start, and if it didn’t work, I could easily rip out the seam and return the pants to their previous shape.
I liked it.
And so I proceeded to sew an entirely new pair of pants, using the same pattern, that one adjustment, and adding a partial lining (to reduce visible panty line, and to protect my delicate flesh from the hard metal teeth of the side zipper.)
They look like this:
Although I may just be the last woman in the developed world to discover my pants don’t fit, and trying to make pants that do might be a bit of a sewing-blog cliche, I’m posting all different views of my new trousers, anyway, toward getting better at making them fit.
Well, I did it. Taking suggestions from here and from around the internet, I embarked on fitting a pair of pants in muslin form. And somewhere in there, with yarn wrapped about my hips and everything pinned awkwardly in place, it occurred to me that anything involving the phrases “crotch depth” and “rear wrinkles” might not be something I want to post publicly to the internet, particularly not accompanied with photographs, particularly not with everyone I know watching. (hi, mom. No butt pictures, not today).
It is serious fitting business, this “pants” subject. And I have learned that muslin show off every bump and wrinkle. I think I have learned some other things, as well: that I’m not actually sway-backed. I thought I was, but I may, in fact, be the reverse. (Flat back?) I’ve learned that I’m knock-kneed and that I am thicker on my front side than I am on my back side (a thing I should have known since my Anatomy class all those years ago.) I’ve learned that even though the “Full Figured Woman” diagram in my Coni Crawford pattern makes me uncomfortable in its harshness, I should pay attention to the related tips, just the same, since that is my body she’s adjusting for.
And I’ve learned some things that I still have in front of me to learn, like that making side seams perpendicular to the floor (when few, if any, parts of my body stand perpendicular to the floor) is an absurd proposition, and that I will probably have to read another forty websites on pants-fitting before this game is over.
And I would like to note: even Fit for Real People doesn’t have a “pants” chapter. They’ll fit the bodice and dress every which way including sideways, but sometimes when you throw in crotch-depth and ass-wrinkles, even the pros realize they need a whole new book for that material.